23 mayo 2012- miercoles

 

Site of future garden- What we started with…

5 mayo 2012- This morning I slid out of bed into some work clothes…including my trusty Peace Corps T-shirt to walk the 3 miles to the primaria (elementary school) in Chotzague, a paraje (village) of downtown San Bartolo. After many months as a dream and concept, the school garden is finally underway!! Just in time because the heavy rains of “winter” (their name for the rainy season) will be arriving anyday! Despite several recent trips on foot there, I still pause to catch my breath now and then on the steep uphills, also holding my breath each time a car or pickup rumbles by and spawns a dust cloud that rivals that of Charlie Brown’s friend “Pig-Pen”…definitely gotta love our dusty dirt roads!

Construction helpers and school band

Preparing the framing for walls

The principal, “Profe (short for professor) Byron” greeted me with the typical arm tap and cheek kiss. Kids of different ages started arriving and we began assigning tasks….I was so glad that they were willing to give up some precious hours of a Saturday morning.  For Guatemalan children, few watch TV cartoons on Saturdays, because many are off working in their parents’ fields or other work to help their families. So we got down to work…older boys sawed posts to the right length…the profe and another man mixed concrete. I taught several kids, especially girls, how to measure the posts with a tape measure. It IS confusing here because they use both metric and American system! …cutting posts to 6ft, marking the smaller ones at 52cm, etc.

Quality control- checking vertical

Concrete was poured into the post holes, and I then instructed a young girl how to check posts for vertical… “Hay que mirar si la burbuja está entre las dos lineas” (you need to check if the bubble is between the 2 lines).  She proudly went about checking all of the posts after we had poured the concrete, and I heard her exclaim “Cabal!” (perfect) as each post met the criteria…sometimes a few nudges and the post would win her approval.

By midday, we had installed the remaining 17 posts of the total 24 posts, and also poured a small concrete base for the ecoladrillos (12oz plastic water bottles filled with inorganic trash). I have been pushing this project as a pilot project using ecoladrillos…some other Peace Corps friends have already directed projects of much larger scale using these ecoladrillos, from elementary schools (of 2-3 classrooms) to a small cultural center…Me? well, I am starting with a modest project but I hope that it might spark interest for putting trash to good use and also reduce construction cost (less need for concrete blocks and cement).

Construction helpers…girls rock!

 

23 mayo 2012- An update…all 24 posts are now installed in concrete, along with wood beams for the tops of the walls! I am the trusty contractor, and along with my 5^th-6^thgrade helpers we have advanced quite nicely. Now we are nailing the chicken wire to the framing of the walls. Two days ago we began tying the ecoladrillos to the chicken wire and filled in one 2-meter section, but the perimeter of the garden wall is 27.8 meters, so we’ve got a ways to go! After the ecoladrillos are in place, we will enclose them with another side of chicken wire, and then two coatings of concrete are plastered on…the wall will appear to be concrete when done, and only we will know that it is filled with ecoladrillos!  Given that the planting season is NOW…we have revised our goal is to first get one-half of the garden completed so that kids can start planting…and then finish the other half. And yes, the rains HAVE indeed arrived!! Last night we had a rather spectacular thunder and lightning storm, losing (luz) power at 6pm last night and getting luz back at 3pm today!

Ecoladrillo wall!

Thankfully tonight the skies have calmed a bit, and the gift of electricity allows me to post this blog.

A brief history on funding this project- The mayor (after multiple begging visits by myself , PTA members, and principal!) offered to pay for some materials (concrete, rebar, and soil), and the PTA at the school is also providing materials (sand and gravel), but a design change and the unknown factor of this construction rose up and bit me…so I ended up financing quite a few of the materials needed (wood, nails, chicken wire). Up until now, I have not appealed for financial support from my followers on this blog, so please excuse my sales pitch now.

Creative use of garden posts

Let me say, that I am VERY impressed with this principal’s work with his students! He has mandatory computer and reading time for each grade (trying to prepare them for a better future), and also requires the food vendor on the school grounds to sell only healthy snacks.

So Profe Byron is on the right track and I really want to support him and his students!

Please consider supporting Chotzague Elementary School for their garden and library…

• $10-20-Purchase of a book for the school library at the national Book Fair in July to supplement the existing 75 books
•  $20 -Purchase of seeds and gardening tools for the garden (each of the seven grades will have a space of 1 meter x 4 meters)
• $30- Materials to improve the school playground (it is in a rather sad state!)
• $100-250- A scholarship fund- I will urge the principal to make it competitive based on good grades and family need. Families here struggle with school costs for uniforms, etc., and often children quit at ^6th grade due to lack of funds. For example, I am supporting a ^7thgrader in another community with a scholarship of 1,925 quetzales (approx $250) so that she can attend middle school (see my post on January 10, 2012 )
  

  A rather sad playground

Your donation of any amount to Friends of Guatemala (FOG) will be deposited directly into my bank account here so I can pass along the funds. FOG is a 501C3 so your donation is tax-deductible. **Note**  on your check, please include my name on the subject line: Janet Wright

 

 

Please mail a check to the following address.

Friends of Guatemala

P.O. Box 33018

Washington D.C. 20033

Chotzague Schoolchildren

The schoolchildren of Chotzague thank you heartily for your support!!

15 abril 2012 domingo 

Christ carrying the cross

The season of PURPLE!!…flowering trees, banners, and robes of the pious descended upon Antigua for their sacred Easter week or Semana Santa. This is Antigua’s finest moment. Por suerte, my friend, Frank, from Vancouver BC, arrived at the beginning of the week to share this feast of splendid pageantry with me.

The main features of Semana Santa are the alfombras (literal translation- carpets) or decorations of flowers and colored sawdust laid out in intricate patterns on the streets, followed by the religious processions….families often work through the night or arise very early in the morning to ensure that their alfombra is ready for that day’s religious procession.  Given that the canvas is usually a rough cobblestone street, a layer of plain sawdust is laid down as a base, and painstakingly leveled. This year I understood that the procession would pass on top of the decorations, so photos must be taken beforehand (a lesson I learned the hard way last year).

Alfombra-making

Despite the many hours spent on these elaborate “paintings”, they serve as a metaphor to highlight the ephemeral nature of life. Quickly they are rendered but a scattered collection of dust under the feet of the pious passing over them. Antonio, the owner of our hostal in Antigua told us, “Alfombras hechas de verduras y frutas están prohibidas” (Alfombras made with vegetables and fruits are not allowed). Puzzled, I asked him why…the answer made sense. The pious can’t really see their feet as they struggle under the weight of the float and risk falling on such large objects underfoot. The proverbial banana peel!  Even still, we did witness a renegade veggie display, so hopefully no missteps occurred.

Xela procession- the Resurrection

Every day’s procession included a float featuring a scene from the last week of Jesus’ life, with somber music and faces bearing these  enormous and heavy floats…each about 25ft long and carried on the shoulders of 40 men or women. After several blocks of struggling under the weight of the float, new recruits step in to alleviate the burden, and continue this way throughout the hours of the procession. In Antigua, the procession would begin mid-morning from a church and return in the evening after a serpentine path through the cobblestone streets. A glance down a street would reveal if alfombras were underway, “okay, they haven’t passed by here yet” …despite the crowd and music, it was surprisingly easy to lose track of where was the procession in Antigua.  Amazingly, as I looked around I noticed that foreign visitors were a tiny subset of the tourists.  It was quite refreshing to see so many Guatemalan visitors in their country’s former capital to celebrate this special week. I received some amused smiles as I traipsed about in my Mayan traje….my townspeople are now used to me in their clothing, however, a canche (blond) tourist in Mayan traje in Antigua was an unusual sight. One elderly woman tugged at my sleeve and gave a huge smile, a vote of approval!

Enjoying a sunny day at Lake Atitlan

Wishing to spread our wings to other sights, we spent several days in various towns along the shore of Lake Atitlan, a crater lake with its own mystical beauty. Panajachel (or Touristlandia), Santa Cruz la Laguna, and lastly Santiago Atitlán which is dominated by Volcan Pedro.  Although this is still verano (summer) or dry season, Mother Nature decided to unleash her water bounty from the skies each afternoon. Sheltered, we admired the dark clouds rolling across the sky spiked by great flashes of light.

Santiago mass

Santiago rivaled Antigua in pageantry as we overlooked a large plaza which was transformed into an outdoor mass. First,wooden pews were carried to their place from the adjacent church, and then the village people arrived de todos lados…on foot and by the 3-wheeled Tuk Tuks.

Men were festive in their long shorts of different colors and embroidery; this is one of few places in Guatemala where men still wear traditional clothes.

Santiago men in traditional clothes

The women were dressed in either blue or purple…with their huipiles (Mayan blouses) covered with embroidered flowers and birds. I watched one mother of twin girls entertain her lively children, and finally sitting down to nurse them simultaneously… no small feat in itself! In a manner of a few hours, the empty plaza was transformed into a sea of color with more than 1,000 faithful celebrating the death and rebirth of Christ. The mass was conducted in both Spanish and the Mayan language, Tz’utujil. Yet, only the Spanish was understandable to me.

Disciples of Christ

An amusing note…prior to the mass, a group of young boys re-enacted the Last Supper.  I give credit to the creative mind who chose their hat design of cylindrical hats adorned with brightly colored plastic puff balls. Somehow I doubt that these were the headgear of the original disciples however, it brought even more color to the festivities. Later, this same group of youth ascended to the stage for a re-enactment of Christ washing the feet of his disciples.

Outdoor mass in the shadow of San Pedro

What splendor!! Such a spiritual sight to look out over the entire village of Santiago brought together by their faith…with the volcano San Pedro as their dramatic backdrop and testament to earth’s beauty. And slowly, the sun set with a brilliant orange sky.

Back to Antigua on Good Friday, we arrived for a rainy evening to witness soggy alfombras and a very wet procession. Frank sadly left behind the colors of Guatemala at the end of a busy week, and I headed to one last celebration in Xela. Easter Sunday. The Resurrection.

Xela women...strong and beautiful!

Little girls were decked out in their white Easter dresses, while women adorned in Mayan traje carried a large float with the Virgin Mary. I am truly blessed to bear witness to this spiritual celebration in my adopted country…perhaps someday others of you will travel here for Semana Santa.

Tomorrow, April 16^th  is my sacred day…mi cumpleaños or birthday.

I give thanks for another year of wonder and friends and family!! Yes, I am indeed blessed. So wherever you lay your head this night, in the USA or another country, I thank you for your kind interest in following my life here in Guatemala. Que le vaya bien! Abrazos de Guatemala!!

15 marzo 2012 jueves 

My humble abode...a studio space

7:20am – Groping for that small black nuisance, I punched a key on the cell phone to stop its insistent bleeping. Sinking back under my wool blanket, Yes! A few more minutes rest until the next snooze alarm. A  light pattering on my tile roof. Rain! Drats! This is “verano” or summer until April, so the wet stuff is supposed to wait its turn in May! Well, the rain will at least pound the dust into submission. I am still adapting to the seasons of 6 mos dry followed by 6 mos of rain. A quick breakfast of powdered milk mixed into my purified water, with chocolate and regular corn flakes. Sounds desperate but I do splurge other days with omelettes, French toast, or pancakes…corn flakes are the fallback.

8:00am- Pulling the metal door shut, I head off from my adobe house on the paved street to the muni (City Hall). Two schoolchildren in uniforms trot by huddled under a large plastic bag to stay dry. “Adios” I call to them…the typical greeting to children. Inside the muni I shake hands and kiss cheeks of fellow workers, because no matter how hurried is someone, it is considered extremely bad manners to forego the greetings. After greeting Sonia, the coordinator for the Municipal Women’s Office I ask, “tenemos transporte hasta Paxboch? ¿A qué hora vamos a salir?” Yes, we’ve got transportation and she proudly states that she has prepared the charla (talk) for our women’s group…topic today: The rights of indigenous women. My task will be to encourage interaction and dialogue, still a difficult process for Sonia.

Magical morning view: the territory of San Bartolo

8:40am- We climb into the rickety muni pickup, and the city councilman reassures us that it has been repaired. Weeks ago was our last trip in this vehicle when the brakes were failing, and the driver could only use the emergency brake. A few days later the brakes entirely failed and the driver ended up plowing into a field, thankfully unhurt. As I prayed silently our scary day, I stated “Vine aquí para servir pero no para morir.” I came here to serve, not to die. Don Guzman is correct…the pickup seems fine (for now). Thumping along on the dirt road, up and down hills, we pull into the village of Paxboch. Women in colorful Mayan traje are milling about, and the greetings and kissing begin.

9:30am- Enough waiting for the late-comers. Doña Marta, petite with a contagious smile, delivers the bienvenida in K’iche’…I understand some.  Stepping forward, I lead a dinamica (activity) asking the women to complete the sentence, “Las mujeres indigenas son…” (Indigenous women are…) Shyly they volunteer: “responsables”, “trabajadoras”, “madrugadoras” (get up at dawn), bonitas. I add “lideresas” (leaders).  Sadly their COCODE (Consejo Comunitario de Desarollo) or community council is not meeting monthly as it should….most likely due to lack of knowledge by the new members. However, the women are losing out on the main avenue to propose projects to be funded by the municipality…in our last meeting they boldly spoke up for improvements to their modest adobe homes…wanting cement floors (currently dirt) and planchas (firewood stoves with a metal cooking surface).  Sigh. Along with every other needy family in our villages. Yet, I am pleased that they are emboldened to speak up. It’s up to Sonia and myself to encourage their initiative!

Demonstrating soy burgers in Patulup

11:00am- Wrapping up our charla…I raffle off 2 baking pans that I purchased in Antigua last weekend. Baking pans are not sold in our town however baking interest has soared. Sweet treats of carrot cake have been springing up in village kitchens as we have taught women how to bake on the stovetop. Vapor cooking with the baking pan inside a large pot is slow but effective. Time to head back to the centro. Several women clamber into the pickup, and a dust cloud erupts behind us.

11:40am- Don Guzman carefully wedges the pickup into a space in front of the municipal teatro….a bright orange stuccoed building with storefronts on the ground floor and a large meeting room/theatre on the 2^nd floor. Hmmm…people are milling about and chatting in the muni. I hear muttered, “No hay luz”. There’s no electricity. Seems to be happening more lately. Fredy, the planning director, notices me firing up my laptop and seeks a few minutes to check his email…fine. Heading home for lunch, I am thankful  to have a gas stove in addition to my electric burner, so I reheat my omelette and hash browns.

2:15pm- Electricity!  The hum of computers returns. Sonia and I fill in the dates in our planners…she implores me to come with her to some villages, but I am standing firm to work with only 4-5 groups. A girls’ group and library improvement project also claim my time. April is fast filling up…with a smile, I request a piñata for my April 16^th birthday.

4:30pm-Telma, the library committee secretary, and I enter BanRural to deposit funds. THANK YOU to my generous friends for those 5,200 quetzales (approx $700) to purchase 8 refurbished computers for our municipal library!! Oh happy day!!…and later in the evening I excitedly email the request to the NGO, Computadoras para Guatemala. Pausing at my home, Telma pleas for my support to the elementary school in Patulup where she teaches, asking me for weekly English classes for the 40 students in grades 4-6. Gulp. I appreciate her earnest promise that the staff are committed, yet I beg for time to consider her request. Organizing and giving workshops to women’s groups has captured my time, so I tell her that I cannot commit to weekly classes…it is rewarding to have others requesting my help, but I must be realistic in my commitments.

5:30pm- Bathing clothes packed, I head to our hotsprings 2km from my home, yes, a relaxing bath is what I need… “goodbye” hovers in the air from kids who are practicing their few words of English. “Bye bye” I reply as I head up the hill. Plopping down 1 quetzal ($0.15) I am reminded how spoiled I am by this cheap luxury, and head to change into my shorts and T-shirt. Normally I just bathe, but the swimming pool calls me to test the water…Yay! It is warm, recently filled up with the thermal water, and it tempts me to slip into it depths. Some visitors from Momostenango, the neighboring town, are very curious…Do I swim? Where is home in the USA? What can I say in K’iche’? I respond and then paddle off for exercise. Some young boys dive in and resurface like seals. Curious, they ask me how I can swim on my back…and after giving a brief demonstration they successfully copy me. I hurry over to the public bath and sit on the low concrete wall to scrub up. Dipping my plastic bowl into the shallow concrete bath, I splash the warm water over my soapy body…everyone is lost in thought tonight. No conversation, just bathing. Dip and pour, dip and pour…this ritual becomes hypnotic, and only the darkening sky indicates that it’s time to stop. Happiness is the feeling of relaxation after the baños and a baggie filled with hot French fries!!,

7:00pm- Leftover Tortilla soup warms on my electric burner and I run down the street to purchase ½ lb of “queso de campo” or a soft cheese wrapped in corn husks (Q7 or $1). My basic needs are met within 2-4 blocks from my home. Driving? I really don’t miss that time and energy expenditure…I am happy with my low carbon footprint life here in Guatemala. Hmm. Dirty dishes shame me into carrying them to my outside pila for washing. The stars have hidden behind clouds, but I can look across the valley to the flickering yellow street lights of Chotzague, a neighboring village to the centro, a magical sight. Last night I was also treated to a dance of fireflies.

Sonia and I proudly wearing Mayan traje

8:30-11pm-Connecting with the world through the internet…the umbilical cord with fellow volunteers and friends back home. Priceless. Now time to set the alarm again on my celular and ease into dreamland. Thanks for journeying along with me today….although miles separate us, be assured that people here in Guatemala may outwardly appear different but in the end, we all seek happiness, love from family and friends, and fulfillment with each waking day. I am so very fortunate to work with these proud and brave women living in adobe houses!!

5 marzo 2012 lunes  

Mother and daughter in Mayan traje

Si, ya hace dos mes desde que mis hijos me visitaron….yes, 2 months have quickly passed since Alex and Michelle tromped around Guatemala with me, but our adventures still are fresh in my mind and heart…

Tortillas or bust!

Our family reunion could be considered a banquet meal of adventure…and as such, historic Antigua was the hors d’oeuvre. Its landscape of pastel-colored buildings and cobblestones streets are rewarded with World Heritage designation, and there exist enough familiar sights that tourists acclimate quickly. Even my kids admitted that the lush garden and Internet café of the MacDonalds was a significant upgrade from those in the U.S. No huge yellow arch due to the strict design standards…in fact, it is so innocuous that one can walk by and miss it entirely due to its blending in. Puchica! Can we ask for this same modest design back home?

Alex very aptly described the camioneta rides across the country to the Western highlands (some exaggeration, but it does reflect the true adrenaline rush):

All aboard for San Bartolo!

“How to ride a camioneta : Give all your worldy possesions to somebody you hope is the ayudante of your bus, who will then climb onto the roof of your bus and tie your stuff down (hopefully/ usually). Get on the bus while it is still moving (if it’s still in the terminal it will only be going around 3mph). If its crowded, squish past people as the people sitting mostly in the aisles stand up to let you pass, possibly find an empty seat on the end of a bench mostly by sitting half on the lap of the person refusing to move, thus indicating politely that you would like them to scoot over a little bit.

Hold on for dear life because the ride will be crazier than any roller coaster in the U.S.  Politely decline the sales offers of papayas on sticks from the food vendors who get on the bus, since their food will send you straight to the sanitarios for the rest of your vacation. As the bus driver drives 20mph faster than a NASCAR driver would take any turns, be a little grateful that God has blessed your bus (as indicated by the large stickers blocking most of the windshield) and that Jesus ( the one, the truth and the way) will prevent any accidents as the bus driver drives in their own lane, on the shoulder, and into oncoming traffic in a valiant if ill-advised attempt to get you to your destination faster than the non-existent schedule would otherwise hope to promise.  

Near your stop, push to the front of the bus, yelling out where you want to get off and alerting the ayudente to the fact that your mochilas (backpacks) are (hopefully) still on the roof.  Hop off the bus, and try to catch your belongings as they are thrown off the roof of the bus ideally in your general direction. If you need to transfer, repeat step A.  If you don’t, quickly locate the nearest sanitario, because if you didn’t need the bathroom before the bus ride, you’re most likely going to need it after for one reason or another- your body will think of something to expel.”

Onto the main course…yes, the meat of our family adventure was indeed that trek up 14,00ft Tajumulco  ( January 5, 2012 post) and huddling in sleeping bags to await the dawn. My challenge to Alex and Michelle, “I will still be around when you reach my current age, so let’s see if you can achieve a similar climb….I shall be calling you!” I warned. So onto the vegetable course which was the Carribean tropical delight of Livingston. This was new territory for me because it involves an all-day trek to the opposite side of the country. As I told my kids, “Visitamos la tierra fria y despues aprovechamos de una navidad en el clima caliente” First, we are visiting the cold territory and then enjoying a warm Christmas!

A choppy boat ride from Puerto Barrios across the mouth of the bay with intermittent rain was definitely the water version of the camioneta. Thankfully each bench had tarps so we huddled under these, with eyes peering out now and then. Livingston! Land of the Garifuna or black Guatemalans, with their own culture and language.  We were given a private tour of the Garifuna neighborhood by a very articulate resident (in English!), and sadly heard that relations are strained between their group, the Mayans, and ladinos (European descent Guatemalans). Our African American Peace Corps volunteers encounter considerable curiosity and prejudice here in Guatemala….many Guatemalans have never seen anyone black and have only a vague notion about the Garifuna culture who live exclusively in Livingston. A black volunteer shared with me that someone once asked her, “Do you have a state for your black people?” referring to the enclave  in this country. Thankfully, it is not so in the U.S., although many would say that a certain apartheid does exist. Both sad and fascinating to hear that native food had been appropriated and made exotic…case in point, Tapado, a tasty seafood dish with coconut milk. Our guide disclosed its origin as “tapo” which was the poor man’s meal of seafood leftovers.

Siete altares

Last of the main course, languid blue pools of water in the dense jungle…called Siete Altares (7 Alters) due to the rock formations as bridges or alters just barely under the surface of the water. Curiosity led us up river until the fading light warned us that the park would be closing…nighttime in the jungle? No thanks. The other visitors jumped aboard a lancha (boat) to return to Livingston, but we intrepid three began trotting the 2 ½ miles along the beach, racing in the waning sun.  That was our adventure for Christmas eve which Alex topped off with dancing until 5am at a Garifuna club…Michelle and I sunk into bed beneath our mosquito nets in the early evening to await Santa’s arrival. Christmas day we delighted our hotel host with our candy orgy…he even photographed the incriminating evidence of candy wrappers galore! Michelle gifted us Senegal treats of T-shirt and blouse , momentos of her last big adventure…Christmas day was a much needed lazy siesta.

Tropical beauties

The tropical adventures continued next day upriver, with another night under mosquito nets at Finca Tatin in the jungle. Alex and I took a brief kayak trip at dusk and then we enjoyed Bananagrams after dinner…this witty game was a frequent trip activity as we three battled for the most creative crossword puzzle. Next day we hopped back into a lancha for the calm ride upriver to Rio Dulce, a bustling city at the mouth of Lago Izabal….the largest lake in Guatemala. Ahhh…Finca Paraiso (Paradise Farm) was indeed that as the warm waterfall massaged our shoulders. Couldn’t get enough of its warmth!

Serving time for the next course of our aventura…dessert! Leaving behind the Caribbean, we sank into the luxurious seats of a tour bus headed to the capital city and watched the tropical landscape become transformed into one much drier with sparse vegetation.

Solola clock tower

The marvel of Lago Atitlan

Lake Atitlan, a beautiful crater lake, was our next destination…our meal was winding down. Several camioneta rides brought us to foggy Solola for our lunch stop. After warming up with caldo (stew) at a comedor, Alex felt inspired to draw the clock tower at the central park.

Michelle and I chose to wander about the market stalls, enjoying the bright blue traje (outfits) of the women and the unusual pants, shirt, and brown-checked skirt outfit of the men. This is one of the few places in Guatemala where the men still wear traditional dress…in warm weather, men just don shirts and skirts. By now, a crowd had gathered around Alex, the artist. He appreciated the interest as street venders and passersby looked to his drawing then to his subject matter and back again. Highest count of admirers: 12 gathered around.

Ringing in 2012

To ring in the New Year of 2012, it had to be Antigua! Festivities in the cobblestone streets, including the pyromaniac display of a man prancing around with a wooden armature of a bull which shot fireworks into the nearby crowds. Gotta love this country’s flirt with danger! A photographer did a quick 2-step to avoid the barrage of sparks. We purchased our light-up headgear…all partygoers were similarly adorned. In the central park, paper lanterns 2ft tall were set aloft with their little flames, rising up into the darkness of the sky…like miniature stars.  And so, as the lights flickered in the lanterns and eventually burned out…so did the minutes of 2011. According to the Mayan calendar, 2012 is a year of big changes (and NOT the end of the world as some forecast).

Yoselin flying high

My wish to friends and family is for 2012 to be a great year, full of adventure and promise….my deep thanks to my adventurous kids, Alex and Michelle, for journeying here…besos y cariño de tu mama!!

18 febrero 2012- sabado  

Jornada medica… the Spanish name for a medical mission.  Weeks ago I was contacted about rounding up some extra volunteers to translate for a group of Texas medical staff coming to San Bartolo, my little corner of Guatemala.  With luck, my two sitemates and I were able to recruit five other volunteers so that at least 2-3 of us could help each of the four days. We were paid with free meals and transportation, and just maybe, a jar of Nutella for each of us!

Sonia and I, just clowning around

When presented with the option of helping the clowns with entertainment /crowd control or the vision clinic, I chose the latter…Yep, I have  a sense of humor, however, I wanted to help with the medical care. Hmm…I could see my program coordinator puzzling over my weekly schedule: “Clowning during a medical mission”.  The jornada was set up in an unfinished church in one of our aldeas (villages) called Paxboch, about an hour walk from the center of town. The dust from the dirt floor was a definite irritant and not the most hygienic environment. Word of mouth and posters were the main publicity, and sure enough, the people came.  Each day about 130 people arrived, some walking 1 ½ hrs each way from other villages, with coughing babies on their backs and small children in tow. Lucky ones got free rides with family or paid to travel by pickup truck.

Vision clinic...don't mind the dust!

On Day 2 and 3, I recruited my Guatemalan workmate, Sonia, the new coordinator for the Municipal Women’s office. Her bilingual skills of K’iche’ and Spanish were especially needed for the women, many of whom spoke limited or no Spanish. Yes, it was a bit like playing telephone, as the patient would speak in K’iche’ to Sonia who passed the comment in Spanish to me, then my translation to English for the doctor and back again down the chain. Time-consuming, but hey, it worked. Vision tests were also a challenge with the women who are generally illiterate, so we taught them to point their hands to indicate the direction of the different ‘E’ orientations. “¿Dónde apuntan las flechas?

Vision testing

Triage volunteers helped determine people’s main health complaints, and then ushered folks towards the makeshift rooms which separated general care, pediatrics, dentistry, vision clinic, gyn clinic, and the pharmacy.  A common list of complaints might read: “headaches, can’t see well, eyes burn, pain in right side.”  Disheartening and eye-opening was my experience as patient after patient sat down in the plastic chair for the vision clinic. So MANY cases of tissue growths and cataracts, both of which are progressive eye problems caused by the sun! The saddest case was a 16 yr old girl who had an advanced case of both problems that greatly limited her vision. An eye doctor in Xela had told her she needed surgery, but she couldn’t afford it. All we could do was give her some eye drops and free sunglasses to offer some more protection. Sadly, too little help. Most eye irritation and illness came from the environmental factors in their lives…wood smoke, chaff when cutting corn stalks, dust and sun rays when outside.

Sonia helps a woman with the eye chart and new glasses

Trying to put the best face on the situation, I struggled with the best words in Spanish to explain that they needed surgery to rid themselves of the growths or cataracts in their eyes, but if they were diligent in wearing sunglasses and hats when outdoors, that they could at least halt the growths, although not the cataracts. I hated delivering this news over and over again. Occasionally there would be an elderly person, usually male, who had excellent eyes for their age…then I could say: “La doctora dice que tiene ojos lindos y buenisimos!” Frequent wearing of a hat had often helped. Another  positive experience for both patient and myself was handing out reading glasses, with occasional distance vision glasses to those in need. Bible reading was a much desired close-up activity, and for women, also the ability to sew. With reading glasses newly perched on their noses, we handed over a needle and thread to test their vision…a cheer went up for each successful threading! The frames for distance vision had been donated, and very much resembled Harry Potter glasses, so we did our best sales job for these: “Qué bonita”, “¡Guapisimo!” Hopefully the joy of seeing again would overcome their reticence to wear these funky, new fangled glasses.

Traditional headress for San Bartolo- a rare sight!

So what did I learn over the three days that I helped…#1- that eye problems are a major problem for people in my town, due to environmental stressors and the sun. Doesn’t matter that they have dark eyes…this high altitude (6,-7,000 ft up) and extended time in the sun takes its toll. #2- the remedy often is an eye operation which is beyond their economic resources. I am now trying to track down facilities or other medical missions that might provide operations. #3- Outside medical help (especially American)gets greeted with great fanfare and enthusiasm, and yes, it does meet a need for services that can be lacking. However, our community members need to be encouraged to use the medical care available to them here and not wait for the foreigners who come every now and then. The urban center of San Bartolo does have a 24hr medical clinic, a birthing room, and yes, an ambulance, although the nearest hospital is 2hrs away.  Yes, it is basic, but the care is free and available.

I encourage any readers who might be medical staff who are considering volunteering on a medical mission to contact and coordinate with the existing medical staff of each town or village… they are the ones who remain to care for their fellow countrymen with their limited resources after the foreigners who are viewed as medical “heroes” board their plane to return home.  It was at my encouragement that two of the coordinators for the medical mission came to the health center to introduce themselves to the staff there and share what services they would be providing in Paxboch. They had not undertaken this step and were unlikely to have introduced themselves without my urging.

Two beautiful ladies in Mayan traje, Sonia y yo

All in all, it was a valuable 3 days for me. Sonia and I joke that we hope to see people out and about in their sunglasses and Harry Potter frames….we shall see. I’ve also now been thinking about better care for my own eyes…maybe some funky sunglasses will soon adorn my face. Gotta practice what I preach after all!

27 enero 2012 viernes 

The intrepid Municipal Development Advisor volunteers

After an emotional 3 days of an all-volunteer conference in Xela I should just climb into bed now that I’m back in my tranquillo little town….yet my mind is still trying to process all of the recent events and the implications for Peace Corps Guatemala.  Since we are “the boots on the ground” for Peace Corps operations, my fellow volunteers and I greatly appreciated the presence of top staff from Peace Corps Washington D.C. to deliver the news.  Their PPT presentation of the historical adaptation of this Peace Corps post through times of war and other strife gave context to the current changes that are underway.  After days and even weeks of a busy rumor mill in the U.S. press, and certainly in the blogosphere of PCVs about what is happening in Guatemala….there has been considerable  fear that this country post was being shut down. Now we volunteers know that this post is not being closed down, but it is definitely being restructured.

What has now been revealed to the approximately 220 Peace Corps volunteers currently serving in Guatemala is that the incidence of crimes against volunteers has been unacceptably high, therefore this  leads to measures to improve our security here…. The strategies include:  reducing the volunteer population by half in the near future and consolidating the remaining volunteers into the region of the Western Highlands. Why? Various reasons, one of which is that the new government intends to crack down on drug trafficking so Peace Corps prefers to be proactive and remove volunteers from those targeted areas. With volunteers in a smaller geographic area of the country, Peace Corps staff can also provide greater support. To reduce the risk of theft during travel, we will no longer ride on the camionetas (chicken buses) for most trips on the Interamerican Highway, instead using tour buses or Peace Corps shuttle vans.  Does it mean that travel on camionetas is inherently unsafe? No.  However, Peace Corps wants to insure less chance of incidents.

Stephanie...you will go far!

Other measures include two training groups leaving 1-4 months earlier than planned, so there was a lot of angst amongst volunteers about leaving behind their unfinished projects and beloved communities. After a few days of processing this dramatic news, people moved along the grief continuum to a tentative acceptance of what this meant for each person. Me? I happen to be a lucky one located in the department of Totonicapán which is considered within a safe zone, so I will get to finish out my service in my site. Others are facing the option of leaving their service early or relocating to a new site….the latter is not so easy after nearly 18 months in their current communities.  Difficult choices!

The "Gang"- my beloved training group!

So with hugs and tears we clung together….our training group of 28 will see some of our members head stateside before March 25th, and others will tackle the challenge of a site change.  Last night I helped my friend, Stephanie, work on her resume to jumpstart her return home….not a step she anticipated taking for awhile.  Yet I know that the challenge of Peace Corps has strengthened the character and abilities of all of us. We have learned how to form coalitions and to persevere and remain flexible in the face of obstacles (both financial and otherwise). What future employer does not seek such attributes and skills?….so the only guarantee is that adventures will assuredly follow each of us whether we remain serving here in Guatemala or head onto the next stage in the U.S.

¡Qué les vayan bien, mis amigos queridos!!

10 enero 2012 martes

A happy 11yr old Noreida

Yesterday was a definite high during my Peace Corps service!! I handed over 100 quetzales ($12) as the first installment of a scholarship for shy and sweet-faced 11yr old Noreida to enable her to continue onto middle school. As the 2^nd to youngest of 8 children ages 8-30yrs, she was dropping out of school after completing 6^th grade this past October due to lack of family funds for her education. Her father works in the fields cultivating maize (corn) for their daily tortillas and her mother sells braids of cotton thread to weavers of the colorful Mayan textiles, gaining little for her work.

Thankfully I became aware of her situation through my women’s group in the village of Paxboch.  Noreida always hung back in the shadows of her sister’s adobe house where our group meets, but I sensed her curiosity and intelligence as she eagerly listened to the various topics of nutrition, marketing, and more. Curious, I asked her mother and sister about her schooling…I found out that none of the 8 children in the family  had ever attended school beyond 6th grade…and most had dropped out by 4th grade. Noreida shared with me her wish to continue school.

My census work in my town’s planning office last fall revealed that 50% of the 17,000 population in my town are children ages 0-17 yrs. That’s 8,500 kids! Do we have schools here? The answer: not enough! There are exactly 5 middle schools in my town,  3 in far-flung villages, and one building in the center of town which hosts a morning and an afternoon school (thus, only 4hrs of instruction!) Distance and availability are not the only obstacles…families usually cannot afford the costs of uniforms, and school supplies.

Fortunately, Noreida was an excellent candidate for the FOG scholarship fund which states: “The FOG Scholarship Program funds scholarships for children in Guatemala who need assistance and are nominated by current Peace Corps Volunteers (PCVs).  This program provides an extra resource that you, the current volunteers, can request to benefit a student in your community who has the potential to take advantage of educational opportunities but whose family cannot afford the costs.”

In November I sent along the simple 1-pg application and a letter of recommendation, oh happy day in December when I received news of her scholarship award! Although the 1,925 quetzales ($250) is less than I requested, I am hopeful that it will be sufficient for her expenses of uniform and school supplies. I will manage the fund for the family and ask that they keep me informed as to their expenditures, and also Noreida’s progress in school…yesterday we went through the formality of signing a contract together. This quiet girl still has many obstacles to surmount, everyday she must walk an hour from home to school on dirt roads which quickly become quagmires of thick mud in the wintertime.  Yet she is still lucky to live within a walk from one of our town’s 5 middle schools….most kids drop out after elementary school for lack of access to schools and funds. Just this week a big-bellied 12 yr old girl from a far-flung village walked into our health center and gave birth, with the new father only 14yrs old. I want a much better fate for Noreida!! At least there is middle school available, but for the next educational level, our town does not have an actual high school…adolescents must travel 2hrs each way to either Totonicapán, our department’s capital, or onto Xela (also 2hrs away) to attend high school, sometimes living there during the week.

So despite our frequent criticism of the educational system in the United States, we citizens can still be very thankful of the accessibility of schooling for our youth.  I am just thankful that as a Peace Corps volunteer I could access financial support for Noreida to be the first in her family to attend middle school …a happy day not only for this family, but for Guatemala!!

5 enero 2012 jueves  

Yes! My turn had finally come to summit Tajumulco, the tallest mountain in Central America, rising majestically to 4220 meters (just shy of 14,000 ft). I had envied other volunteers who had already trekked skyward up its slopes, but it seemed fitting to postpone this challenge until the arrival of my two children to Guatemala.

Alex, age 23, and Michelle, 21, landed in Guatemala City on December 15^th for a three-week adventure planned by their mother-tour guide. Both had sounded enthusiastic, well at least interested, in the idea of climbing Tajumulco…yet I knew that Michelle, coming from sea level would need a few days to acclimate to the 6-7,000 ft altitude in the Western Highlands before we ramped up to double that. Alex has the advantage of living in Boulder, Colorado amidst the Rockies…so his red blood cell count was fine. Our training regime was perhaps a little unorthodox but decidedly fun, including a night of salsa dancing in Xela until 1 am. Next we headed to my town where we enjoyed hikes to the villages as we chomped down chocobananos (chocolate-covered frozen bananas) for 1 quetzal each ($.15).

Trekking skyward

We entrusted Quetzaltrekkers, a hiking organization with a heart (their profits support a primary school in Guatemala) to lead our way. First stop: warm clothing and supplies from their lending closet….jackets were pulled on and off until the perfect fit. Thankfully there were gloves, fleeces, and hats, too. Soon our backpacks were bulging with winter wear, tents, water, food and more….A brief pre-trip meeting covered some ground rules, including minimizing our environmental impact with a “shit kit”. (Luckily at the top of the mountain we found an open-air 3-seater latrine, with a marvelous mountain view from that throne so the kit went unused.) Finally packed, we carbo-loaded with pasta, marinara sauce, veggies, and Protemas (a soy product). Then bedtime  zzzs.

Wed., December 21^st – Trek day! Left Xela at 6am to arrive to Tajumulco, hanging on tightly as the camioneta (chicken bus) sped along windy mountain roads. Guatemalan bus drivers will often brace one hand on the window as the other hand spins the wheel HARD, definitely rivaling drivers of the Indy 500. We trekkers revved our own internal engines on warm pancakes and fruit salad in San Marcos…lunch would be earned on the mountain. The moment arrived at 11am to strap on loaded backpacks. The initial trail was merely a dirt road of little interest which began at 3,000 meters, but soon we had views over the valleys and experienced both altitude and load. I’ll admit that I wimped out and gave the tent fly and an extra water to Alex since he was nearly skipping up the mountain, and I was trekking slowly…my load was still substantial but now there was hope of reaching the top.  Several snacks and lunch of guacamole, hummus, and bean salad had been very welcome.  Four hours later we arrived to our base camp at 4,000 meters, pitching our tents under some scruffy pine trees.  Snuggling near the campfire, we chatted with our two guides, Santi from Guatemala, and Josh from Canada. Allistar, a young man from England, was the 4^th trekker of the group. With nightfall the temperature plummeted to the 30s F, so we quickly dashed from the warmth of the fire into our sleeping bags…pulling on yet more layers of clothes and trying to sleep.

Thurs., December 22^nd - Summit day!Alarms beeped with insistence at 4am. With nervous excitement and shivering in the dark and cold, we stuffed pads and sleeping bags into our backpacks for the final trek. Headlamps lit up the rocky ascent of the final 200 meters…often we climbed on all fours. Here is where the altitude truly hit hard as the oxygen tapered off FAST! Moving felt like a chore, so we took it slow with breaks to hydrate so as to calm headaches and pounding hearts…an hour later we successfully reached the flat top of Tajumulco!! In the darkness we could hear others, but our priority was on snuggling back into our sleeping bag cocoons until some sign of dawn.

Snuggling in for Nature's show

Shadow on Tacana

Silhouette of distant volcanoes

Peeping out now and then, a glow began over the horizon which revealed the outline of distant volcanoes: Santa Maria (Xela), San Pedro and others (Lake Atitlan), and even the volcanoes Agua and Fuego, halfway across the country near Antigua. In rapture, I watched distant Fuego puff clouds of smoke lit up by the sun. A glorious dawn it was!!

Pulling myself from my sleeping bag, I filmed the progression of the sun. Despite freezing hands I captured the splendor of the mountain, its crater, and the intrepid trekkers who bore witness. The Pacific Ocean hid below a layer of clouds but our view was framed by the sentinel of volcanoes in the east and Mexico to our west. An orange glow spread over all of us as the sun rose higher, with our mountain casting a long shadow upon the smaller, neighboring volcano Tacana.

Glorious!

Atop the world!

Our eyes had been filled with treats, but our stomachs demanded the same…so it came time to descend. Layers of clothes came off as we descended into the bright sun and the air warmed up quickly. At base camp we chomped down hearty mosh (just love that Spanish word for oatmeal!) We broke camp, and headed down the mountain…a mere two hours later we arrived to the start. Our trek included a delicious lunch at a nearby restaurant with a huge glass pane window overlooking the valley, festive Christmas decorations and yes, the opportunity to just sit for awhile. But no adventure is complete without a postscript…on our way to San Marcos our bus halted due to a trash truck hanging onto an embankment. The 4 male trekkers joined the Guatemalan men in attempting to pull the truck out by rope, budging it to a more secure footing and we then resumed our journey….ahh, got to love the beauty and adventure of Guatemala!

Goodbye to 2011 atop Tajumulco

Gracias to our guides from Quetzaltrekkers for an amazing end to 2011 on the tallest peak of Central America!

30 noviembre 2011 miercoles 

Food feeds the soul- Nebaj market

Although we have exported much of American culture to far-flung places like Guatemala….Thanksgiving per se has yet to arrive here. Celebration in the company of friends and family over a meal is actually quite customary here, just subtract the extravagant quantity of food and add in some tortillas and beans!! Perhaps we should adopt more of this practice in our everyday lives given how many Americans cite this as their favorite holiday.

Briefly I considered chasing down a turkey (maybe literally!) in my town to serve up a feast to my Guatemalan friends, but my desire to commune with other Americans won out…it’s the one day that I want to reaffirm my American roots and eat the bounty from our tierra. With new American friends, Nancy and Dale, we boarded the camioneta (chicken bus…or turkey bus?) to head north to the beautiful valleys and towns in Quiche, with Nebaj as our destino. Last year’s feast had left a pleasant taste in my memory, so it was worth a return visit.

Nebaj is famous for the striking traje or Mayan outfits of their women…either a deep red or maroon corte (skirt) with a few simple lines, an embroidered huipil (blouse) and festive pompoms as a headdress. A plaque in the parque states: “Cuña del traje más bello en el mundo.” (Cradle of the most beautiful Mayan outfit in the world.) This ice cream vendor very sweetly posed for a photo…and then proudly smiled with her husband at her side. None of the usual reticence!

Nebaj traje and friendliness

Evening volleyball game

Memory snapshots include:  a volleyball game at dusk in front of the town iglesia, vendors hawking ice cream and atol (hot drink of rice and sweet milk) for 1 quetzal ($.15), and a swirl of red cortes as women and girls walked by. Many scenes shall only be remembered and not captured on film in order to afford some privacy to Nebaj residents…I was unwilling to intrude excessively, for this is their daily life and not a spectacle for tourists. Such is the delicate balancing act.  A precious moment was chatting with a little girl of 6yrs old who had her very blond doll baby in a colorful woven sling on her back, already practicing maternal skills…I sure wished the doll more resembled her but the stores seldom carry brown-eyed, darker-skinned dolls. Hmm…not exactly a message of acceptance of Mayan appearance.

Jenny, my sitemate, and pumpkin pie!

Thanksgiving feast was all I hoped for…even seconds on stuffing spiced to perfection. Sniff, only the cranberry sauce was missing, apparently unavailable to even Don, the well-connected host. A children’s choir serenaded us post-feast with American and translated tunes. I particularly enjoyed the Guatemalan version of “This Land Was Made for You and Me”…showcasing and nurturing cultural pride.  The TV remained off, so the football games had to wait, however, the fast-paced word game of “Bananagrams” completed the holiday. Friendly arguments erupted whether words could be spelled up or down, and whether such words even existed! Yes, just like home. Our gang of Peace Corps volunteers and visitors headed to a club for some dancing to burn off those turkey calories…what a delight to enjoy some meringue, bachata and salsa on Thanksgiving.  I was very thankful!

The infamous Tuk Tuks

Side trips to a waterfall and a cheese farm on other days kept us busy…and yes, I am VERY thankful for the quick reaction of the mother of the nauseous infant to direct her stream towards the door of the van, soaking my pants only slightly. The windy mountain roads can take a toll! A different van trip included people hanging two deep out the door. Soon, the sardine act became unbearable and we jumped out to finish the trip on foot, so much more pleasant. Often people bearing heavy loads of leña (firewood) trudged by…I loved a Canadian’s telling of how he relieved a boy of his load and carried it with a forehead sling as most do, walking with the family to their destination. Neighbors stared in amazement and asked with envy, “Where did you get THAT Gringo?” Clearly he was hot property for rental.

Nebaj traje...going native!

New friends, Nancy and Dale

In honor of Nebaj, I wanted to add their colorful corte to my wardrobe…and yes, I have already worn it back in my site (minus the headdress of pom poms which were purchased by my friend, Nancy). So I am very thankful for this opportunity of a lifetime to live and work amongst Guatemalans, gaining a deep appreciation of the physical and spiritual beauty of the people and their land. Also muchas gracias to my new friends, Dale and Nancy, and letting me play tour guide. For all my friends and family back in the U.S., thank you for your continued interest and support…please keep me in your thoughts and prayers! Upon my return home to my site last Sunday, I was mobbed in a group hug by Silvia who lives next door and my little friends, Yoselin and Shevlin. Heart-warming!!

A warm welcome by my little friends

Soon I shall enjoy such bear hugs from my two children who shall visit my adopted home to enjoy a Christmas together. Sí, tengo que dar gracias para mucho en mi vida…So much to be thankful for….a very special Día de Gracias!!

7 noviembre 2011 lunes  

Día de los Muertos or November 1^st is a day to celebrate dearly departed loved ones…Guatemalans  head to cemeteries to picnic as families, offering food up to the deceased. There are no candy skulls (as in Mexico), although eating sweet treats seems encouraged. Maybe to celebrate the sweetness of being alive and still walking on this earth.

A colorful feast for the eyes!

There are 2 festive celebrations in Guatemala on this day, so it’s a hard choice…Spectacularly large paper kites  in Sumpango (near Antigua) or drunken horseback riders who race about the town of Todos Santos (in the far north) where the men also wear traditional clothes. Last year my training group was deprived of attending these celebrations because we were required to journey to our new sites on October 30^th. This year we had choices…and I voted KITES!!

Paper marvels in kite form

It was even more special to share these Guatemalan traditions with my visiting dance friend, Michael.  We departed Antigua at 8:30am on a packed camioneta (chicken bus), then were carried along by the throngs pouring into the cancha (soccer field). A kaleidoscope of brightly colored paper kites of various sizes greeted our first view…many propped up on poles, with others in the process of construction. The very largest, about 16 meters in diameter were just for exhibition; their weight and size was impressive (especially their massive infrastructure of bamboo frames).  A friend told me that the following day there might be an attempt to get these huge kites airborne by pulling them behind a pickup!

Building the mega-kites!

The kites represent communication with the dead. Glancing at the variety, some decoration themes became apparent: protecting the environment, combating child abuse, and celebrating childhood.  The first kites that flew were made by children, about 8ft in diameter. Groups of kids ran with the rope to liberate their kite from the earth. The wind was spotty and so most kites stayed airborne only briefly, but the announcer encouraged applause for all attempts. It was a constant challenge to get Guatemalans and foreign visitors to clear the field so that the runners could launch their kites…only threat of injury from falling kites seemed to have an effect on the crowd.

A proud construction team

Families and kids flew their own smaller kites in a grassy field behind the cancha…and we also tried our hands at launching our own paper kites. Some good-natured tangling happened. A very brave boy was spotted climbing more than 80 ft up a tree to rescue his kite, but it was not to be unleashed by the tree…I held my breath until he returned safely to the ground. Pobrecito, a real Guatemalan Charlie Brown.

Celebrating childhood games

In the early afternoon the medium-sized kites (6 meters in diameter) were launched into the air…more running with the ropes, but the wind continued to be fickle. Most ascended and rapidly descended…although a few deceased spirits represented in those paper and bamboo creations hung aloft for a little while. My heart soared along with all of the attempts…I was celebrating 1 year of serving in my site. So much I have learned during this experience of a lifetime and so very much more I have left to do!!

Soaring kites and hopes for my 2nd yr!